Car Buying SecretsKickbacks for Secret APR IncreasesOne of the car industry's dirty little secrets is the practice of lenders giving kickbacks to dealers for charging their customers higher interest rates. For example, if a lender's current rate on a particular loan is 8%, but the dealer charges the customer 10%, the dealer usually gets to keep most (if not all) of the additional finance charges. (On a typical 5-year loan for $20,000 that extra 2% adds about $20 to the monthly payment.) This is done on both loans and leases, and because it's done without any disclosure to the customer, it's a deceptive practice. Money Saving Tip--To get the best possible deal on a new car or truck, do all of your homework before signing any contracts or putting any money down. Dealer tricks (like secret APR increases, packed payments and other common rip-offs) can quickly erase any discounts or other savings that you think you're getting, so learn how to calculate your own monthly payments. Use the Internet to get at least six quotes before you start negotiating with dealers. For free (no obligation) quotes on new cars & trucks, click on InvoiceDealers, NewCars, CarsDirect, AutoPrices, CarQuotes, and FordDirect. To make sure you're not missing out on a better deal, get quotes from all six services! For more Money Saving Tips, Click Here. Quoting Packed or Loaded PaymentsQuoting "packed" or "loaded" payments is a deceptive practice that is commonly used by car dealers. (It's even taught to their salespeople in training seminars.) Here's how it works: When the customer asks how much the monthly payment would be on a particular vehicle, the salesperson gives them an inflated figure that represents a higher loan amount or APR. For example, if the correct loan payment was $345, the customer might be quoted a payment of $385. On a 5-year loan, this would end up costing the customer an additional $2,400. If the customer (unknowingly) agrees to the inflated monthly payment, the dealer then has a number of ways to get his hands on the additional money. For example, the customer might be talked into getting one or more high-priced (and high-profit) items like an extended warranty or car alarm, "at little-or-no extra cost." (At least that's what the customer is told.) Or the customer might be charged an APR of 11% on a loan when the going rate is only 8%, so the dealer can pocket the additional finance charges. And if inflated payments were used on a lease, the extra money could represent a secret price or APR increase. This little scheme is frequently used to trick people into leases: Dealers simply quote inflated loan payments to make a conventional purchase look a lot more expensive than a lease. You can avoid this scam by using the Internet to find competitive rates on car loans (look for "Online Auto Loans" in our Money Saving Tips page), then calculating your own payments. Extended Warranty Rip-offsSelling service contracts (extended warranties) has always been a big moneymaker for car dealers. Since their customers have no idea how much markup there may be on a particular warranty, many dealers have been able to make as much profit on that item as they made on the whole car. Worse yet, instead of selling good factory-backed policies, some dealers have sold practically worthless "brand X" warranties at outrageous prices, just to make more money. Before the days of four-wheel drives, computers, and turbochargers, dealer's cost on these warranties used to be around $200 to $300. Today, policies for a few well-built, basic models (like a Toyota Corolla) may still cost the dealer less than $400, but most have gone up in price. For many four-wheel drives and vehicles with poor repair histories, the dealer's cost may be as high as $1,400 to $1,800 on factory-backed policies, and the typical "family sedan" warranty usually costs about $800 to $900. However, the price to the customer is often whatever the market will bear, so it's not unusual to see dealers trying to sell $900 policies for $2,000 or more. As an alternative to the high prices that dealers often charge for their policies, reliable extended warranties can also be purchased from other sources. These policies are sometimes called "service contracts," and they're available for most new vehicles at customer prices that are typically around $400 to $700. (Keep this in mind when the dealer tries to sell you his warranty for $2,000 to $3,000 -- plus $400 or more in interest when he adds it to your car loan.) Money Saving Tip: Don't pay those high dealer prices on extended warranties! Get free quotes and discount prices -- Click on 1Source AutoWarranty and Warranty Direct. Overpriced Car AlarmsThe increasing popularity of car alarms has given dealers another opportunity to make huge profits. An inexpensive ignition/fuel cut-off system (which is not even a real alarm) typically costs the dealer less than $50 to install, but the customer's price is often $200 to $250. (This type uses a special key that's inserted under the dash to start the vehicle, but it has no real "alarm" features.) Dealers often charge at least $500 to $600 for the installation of a decent (full-featured) alarm system, even though their cost is closer to $150. And some dealers have been caught charging $2,000 to $3,000 for systems that were only worth about $250.
If you're interested in saving money on an alarm for your new car or truck, check the local Yellow Page listings under "Automobile Alarm/Security Systems." A good system can usually be installed by an aftermarket alarm company for $200 to $250 (or less), and some even offer lifetime warranties. The Dealer Prep ScamCharging customers for "dealer prep" is an old trick that's been used to pick up an easy $150 to $200 (or more) in extra profits. Since dealers are already being paid by the factory for new-car preparation, any amount that you pay for this service is pure profit. Don't fall for this, just refuse to pay it. One-Price, No-Haggle DealersA "revolutionary" concept is being tested in the sale of new and used cars: fixed, no-haggle prices. Saturn dealers have always had this (supposedly) "consumer-friendly" policy, and now a growing number of used-car dealers are showing up with similar practices. Several automakers are even attempting to convert some of their new-car dealers to "one-price" after seeing used-car superstores like CarMax and AutoNation getting good customer satisfaction ratings. Is improved customer satisfaction the only motive behind this trend toward no-haggle prices? Maybe not. A recent survey of used-car transactions suggests another reason for dealers to embrace this radical change: On average, no-haggle dealers are getting more money for cars than dealers that allow price negotiation. How much more? Usually $500 to $600, sometimes as much as $1,000. (For more details on this survey, see "And They Call This Consumer Friendly?" on the CarInfo.com Editorial Page.) Warning to Car BuyersMany car buyers who rely on the Internet as their only source of information end up paying a lot more than others who do a little more homework. How much more? Typically $500 to $600 on your average $20,000 vehicle, and sometimes as much as $1,500. (Even more on higher-priced cars.) Why are these people paying so much more -- for the same vehicles? And what secrets do the "smart shoppers" have that enable them to get better deals? INFORMATION! Car buyers with the best information get the best deals, and smart shoppers know how -- and where -- to get the best information. (They also don't mind paying for it.) Too many people make the mistake of thinking that all they need is the magic "dealer invoice" number to get the best deal. Thinking that "dealer invoice" is the same as "dealer cost" is mistake #1, which is usually followed by mistake #2: thinking that they can always get accurate dealer cost information on the Internet, for free. Mistake #3 is not knowing the actual prices that "smart shoppers" are paying for the same vehicle. Mistake #4: thinking that a dealer who belongs to an Internet buying program is going to give them the lowest price in town. Mistake #5: not researching loan and lease rates before visiting the dealer. Mistake #6: believing the dealer when he says, "The best rate I can give you on a loan (or lease) is X%." Mistake #7: not knowing how to calculate their own loan/lease payments. Mistake #8: buying a service contract from the dealer at the quoted price. Mistake #9...Are you beginning to get the picture? There's a lot more to getting a great deal than most people realize, and you're not going to find all the information you'll need in a Web site. Here's a true story of mistakes made by one Web-surfing car buyer: "Fred" works in the computer industry and is an experienced Web surfer. When he mentioned to a friend that he was in the market for a new car, his friend told him about a car buying book he had read and how much money he had saved by following its advice -- which included paying for accurate "dealer cost" information. But Fred thought that was silly because he knew how to find everything on the Internet, for free. (Or so he thought.) When Fred was ready to buy, he used a popular Web site to get his free "dealer cost" numbers. Then he went to the dealer to make an offer. After a little haggling, the dealer agreed to sell the car for $800 over invoice, stating that "normally, we like to make more than $800 on a car, but we'll accept your offer." Since Fred thought the dealer was only making $800, he was convinced that he was getting a great deal. What he didn't know was that the dealer's real cost was a lot lower than invoice due to secret dealer incentives that were worth about $1,300. (So the dealer made $2,100 on Fred's car, not $800.) And he also didn't know that other people (the smart shoppers) were buying the same vehicle for hundreds below invoice. The bottom line: Fred overpaid by at least $1,000 because he tried to save a few bucks by using free "dealer cost" information. Money Saving Tip: Don't overpay on a new car or truck! Get the real dealer cost numbers (plus other valuable car buying and leasing secrets) by ordering a Fighting Chance Information Package. | Q: | FAQ 58: Timing Belts, Timing Chains | | A: | The task of a timing belt or timing chain is to connect the cam shaft (which opens and closes the valves) to the crank shaft (which pushes the pistons up and down) AND TO KEEP THEM IN COMPLETE SYNCHRONIZATION. When the camshaft stops turning because the timing belt slips or break, a valve will inevitably be left open. As the crankshaft continues to turn and push the pistons up and down, the piston can collide with the open valve and damage the valve or piston. When that happens, a timing belt replacement that would usually cost $250-350 has grown to a, "let's remove the head, fix all the bend and broken valves and let's pray none of the pistons are damaged because if they are, you will need a complete new engine which will start at $1000 and could grow to $3500-4500.".
Timing chain - often used on V-6 and V-8 domestic engines as well as some import engines. Mostly of the time, unless a chain guide breaks, these systems will last 125-150k miles. To see the slop the chain may have, pull all the spark plugs and remove the distributor cap. Then turn the engine over maybe 1/4 of a turn using the front crank bolt. Stop, then while watching the rotor, turn the engine the other way and watch the rotor for movement. Most good techs can "feel" and see the slop in the chain by this simple test.
When replacing the timing chain, never cut corners and replace the cam and crank seals, all of the timing chain guides and the tensioner. If you don't, you will go back into this same area to do the rest of the job in the very near future.
Timing belt - used in most overhead cam 4 and 6 cylinder engines, domestic and import. The belt is cogged on the underside and not only runs the cam shaft, but in some engines, can run a sprocket that runs the distributor, or the balance shaft or the water pump. Some cars even have two timing belts.
The time to replace the timing belt varies car maker to car maker, but I think most techs would agree that you need to change your timing belt no earlier than 60k and no later than 100k. Check your owners manual for specific information.
The cost to replace the timing belt depends on what else you do. All of the components inside the front covered area of the engine went the same miles, the belt, the cam and crank seals, maybe the water pump and for sure the belt tesioner. Replacing just the belt is just plain stupid. When you do that, you can be sure you will not make another 60k or 80k because something will go wrong, a seal will go bad and wipe out the new belt and you will have to do the entire job all over again.
Bid the basic components, the belt(s) and the labor, then pick a shop and then authorize the work. Tell them to call you with an updated estimate once they get inside. Plan on another $200-300 or so on top of the belt(s) and labor original estimate. Do it right and you will get the same mileage you got with the original belt, cut corners and you will pay to go back in there again . . . and again . . . and again . . .
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| Q: | FAQ : Brake fluid flush, why? | | A: | Years ago, when master cylinders cost $59 and the labor was $30 to change them, spending money trying to save or extend the life of your brake master wasn't a good idea. If you decided to flush the master cylinder once a year or every other year, the cost of the flush would exceed the cost of the repair. So why spend $35-45 two or three times to save a $90 repair job?
But today is quite different. Today with anti-lock brakes (ABS) the pump and master cylinder can cost $2,250 or more, depending if you have a GM or a Lexus. So if you agree that old dirty brake fluid will eventually cause brake component problems, NOW it makes sense to spend $100-150 every other year in an effort to reduce the risk of having to spend $2,000 or more.
You've heard me say, if it isn't in your manual, then don't do it. This may be an exception to my rule. Having your brake fluid changed every other year is a good idea that 95% of all well educated techs will agree with.
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| Q: | FAQ 57: Coolant Questions | | A: | While coolant and antifreeze may have some differences in chemical composition, I use the terms interchangeably for the purpose of making this simple to understand.
Green coolant is the normal coolant or antifreeze most of us are used to. We mix it 50/50 with water to raise the boiling point of water from 212F to 240F or so.
Red coolant is normally the same as green coolant except found in foreign and European cars.
Orange coolant is the long life coolant found in many newer domestic cars and trucks. It is not supposed to be changed for 50 to 75k or 5 years or so.
We process about 10k cars a year and we are seeing a couple of things with the orange long life coolant that makes us very uncomfortable. We are seeing a brown thick milky substance floating on top of the coolant in the overflow jugs and we are seeing an orange like gel (looks like jello) just under the radiator cap and in the neck of some radiators on some cars with long life orange coolant. We are also seeing much more corrosion on newer model cars but we are unsure if it is related to the orange long life coolant or not.
Last, most folks are very uncomfortable leaving the same coolant in their car for 100k. Really, there is no way a car will end up with the same coolant for 100k because we will have to do some cooling system repair (water pump, hoses, radiator) in that first 100k and very few of us will contain and reuse coolant we drained from a customer's car.
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Types of Motor OilToday's line of motor oils can be divided into 3 main categories: Conventional motor oilConventional oils are the result of refining crude oil. During the refining process, crude oil is separated into many different elements. Some of this material becomes the basis for fuel and oil. Conventional motor oil is made up of a mixture of long and short chains of carbon and hydrogen atoms. In extreme heat, short-chain molecules can evaporate and unstable molecules can oxidize. Conventional oils also contain more naturally occurring impurities such as sulfur, reactive hydrocarbons, waxes, and other unwanted contaminants that can't be completely removed by refining. Full Synthetic motor oilFully synthetic motor oil is made from non-conventional, high-performance additives and fluids. Full synthetic motor oils typically use a base stock called polyalphaolefins, or PAO. Synthetic motor oils have a smaller, more uniform, molecular structure which makes the consistency and lubricity properties much better. Synthetic oils do not contain as many contaminates, such as waxes and reactive hydrocarbons, as conventional oil. The result is a motor oil that remains viscous under the widest possible range of temperatures and engine conditions. Synthetic motor oil is better at preventing wear, it flows easier, keeps the engine cleaner, maintains its viscosity longer, and prevents rust better. Synthetic motor oil is usually considerably more expensive than conventional motor oils. But you can go much further between oil changes, which in turns saves you money. Plus you are using less oil in the long run. Synthetic Blend motor oilSynthetic blend motor oils are an attempt to get the best of both types of motor oils; the superior properties of full synthetic motor oil, and the lower price of conventional motor oil. And the performance characteristics are about where you would expect to find them, right between the full synthetic oil and the conventional motor oil. Most synthetic blend motor oils are not true synthetic oil, as they do not have a PAO base. Synthetic blend motor oils typically include a premium package of anti-wear agents and additives.
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6200 N. Lincoln Chicago, Ill. 60659- 2206
100 East Higgins, Hoffman Estates, Ill. 60195- 3728
90,000 Mile Maintenance
We will replace;
1. Air filter
2. Flush Transmission and filter
3. Change engine oil
4. Replace spark plugs.
$299.95 *Most cars.
**4 cylinder only, Vans, Suv's, Platinum plugs,six and eight cylinder slightly higher.
No other discounts apply Additional shop supplies and waste disposal will be added.
Note: If you have not performed the 30,000-45,000 and 60,000 Mile Maintenance, You must perform both services to properly maintain your vehicle(It is recommended by the manufacture).
Keep your car running like new!
Call for an appointment today!
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: The best way to keep your vehicle running good and environmentally friendly is by performing regularly scheduled maintenance, rather than waiting to correct a problem . Neglecting the scheduled maintenance can lead to more extensive and expensive repairs. This scheduled maintenance we provide is basic and may not be exactly what your car requires. Acorn Tire has a computer program with a database with your automobiles factory scheduled maintenance, please call for details. We will inspect;
1. Timing belt
2. Brake system
3. Coolent system
4.Drive axles
5. Drive belts
6. Exhaust system
7. Fluid levels
8. Fuel system and fuel vapor lines
9. Brake system
10. Suspension system
11. Vacuum lines
12. Cabin air filter
13. Rotate tires.  - Remember your oil and filter change every 3,000 miles
- Rotate and re-balance your tires every 5,000-6,000 miles (proven to extend tire life by 30%)
- Be sure to check your air conditioner now to see if it blows cold air. Better to have service completed before the intense heat of the summer.
- A tune up may be smart before summer travel. Tune ups on modern engines require spark plug replacement, cleaning of throttle body and some filters.
- If your engine hesitates, has lost power, or has poor gas mileage- THINK - fuel system and internal engine carbon removal. Motor VacTM may be the answer, call Acorn Tire for details.
- Check the air pressure in your tires including your SPARE!! On the average a tire will lose ½ lb. of air per month.
- Have us look at your lights in both the front and rear of your vehicle. The cold winter is hard on small bulbs.
- Save you old fan or serpentine belt and place under your spare tire as a spare belt. You may need it one day while you are on vacation.
- If you do your own oil changes, dispose of old oil and filter properly. Drop them off at any Acorn Tire store for proper disposal. HELP US SAVE THE ENVIRONMENT!!!!
- Rain, Rain Go Away.... Replace your old wiper blades before the heavy Spring rains.
- Drive slowly through high water, less water will spray on your engine.
- Be cautious of spring rain washing excess debris to the sides of the road. Goodyear's new Run Flat Tires may be the answer!!!
- Try to miss dead animals on the road, their splintered bones are deadly to your tires.
- Be wary of the new all inclusive tire pricing. Shop and compare before you buy, you may be surprised.
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